The last day of Paris Fashion Week which closes the Fall/Winter shows confirmed the trend to adolescent sport style at Louis Vuitton and Miu Miu with Hermès reducing tailoring to its simplest expression in oversized menswear shapes.
Hermès curtained off the Paris Bourse for an intimate show which worked like a best of Christophe Lemaire’s dramatically simple menswear-inspired tailoring for the house. This was a daycentric collection featuring sweeping no-detail coats, cape like drapes, tunics with matching pants and smock dresses twisted or bloused over a belt, all shown with chunky sandals and ribbed and rolled socks. Even crossover dresses in sleek leathers had a coat feeling. Best here is the sleeveless shearling jacket with scarf back, the oversized blazer with pants and giant cable neck sweater dress with a zip neck.
The 60s/70s suburban style adolescents at Miu Miu began by playing it  cute and simple in quilted nylon pastel ski jackets and A-line minis with pointy toed flats, but before long they were spicing up their country club sport classics with a luxury touch. It looked like a 50s cocktail party had bonded with L.L. Bean in ski style jackets in patchwork astrakhan, foiled brocade in tank dresses topped by transparent pastel raincoats and novelty furs over sporty girl style.
It was the show everyone was waiting for this season, Nicolas Ghesquière’s return to fashion after a year and a half absence as the new designer for Louis Vuitton. And this collection showed just how much he has been missed. Ghesquière hit the nail on the head with a casually driven lineup displaying his leather creativity in short, A-line styles with a 60s/70s inflection. This collection was packed with great ideas beginning with LVs new “Petite Malle†mini trunk bag. Ghesquière however has always been much more involved with clothes than accessories. The news at Louis Vuitton: snaps and zips instead of buttons; a casual 60s/70s vibe with shirt collar jackets and coats in molded, patchwork leather; A-line leather skirts with patch pockets; hourglass leggings cinched tight at the waist in wet look leather or graphic florals; patterned blazers with solid yokes; bicolor rib knit turtlenecks worn with everything and skisuit style knitwear.
article : Rebecca Voight http://www.superfluparis.com/
Photos:Â Style.com
