Rei Kawakubo uses the Comme des Garçons runway to break new ground and in the process she inspires everyone. Last season she encased her models in padded grillwork sculptures, the clothes all but forgotten. For this season’s “Monster,” an exploration of ungliness and beauty, she went half and half, padding the oversized clothes to double some of the models up and wadding discards together to form a sculptural bouquet of excessive pieces worn over body stockings and tights in a rough and loose knitwear pattern.

Haider Ackermann is moving into a new framework, allowing his tailoring to slouch, hang loose and pool to the floor. In smoky taupes, grey and khaki, It’s as simple as a tailored robe coat over ribbed knit pajamas, a simple leather jacket without pockets over boyish sweatshirt pants with biker stitching, or a twinset in dark, muted herringbone composed of a blouson and a shell. There are so many hidden details in these clothes like the jeans fronted in python with the softest ribbed knit on the side, or blousons with fox lining worn unzipped with the sleeve rolled to flash the fur so what at first seems to simple and casual is actually quite complex and very luxurious.

Circles of black and a field day of textures made Junya Watanabe’s collection look as though it was camouflaged for a trip through the black forest. Inbetween the shimmering foliage one could see the outlines of the traditional pieces Watanabe loves from the duffel coat to the trench full skirts and a fantastic down cape, cardigans and slip dresses.

Magic in the hands of Olympia Le-Tan is child’s play. First she turned books into bags and now she’s slipped from accessories into clothes. The bunny ear magic hat bag , playing card shorts and heart lapel suit are supremely Le-Tan, but this season she added Paris by night with little black dresses in black satin and velvet a waisted patent trench and tux tailoring.

article : Rebecca Voight http://www.superfluparis.com/
Photos: Style.com