Every paradise has roots and a skilled creator behind its existence. The new café-restaurant Paradis is no exception.
Rest assured, it’s not a place whose seeds are freshly planted and need time to grow. Let’s call it more of an uprooting and dissemination of talent, as former head chef of Racines 2 Nicolas Gauduin has brought his team to Paradis and literally puts paradise on your plate.
Formally trained by Alain Passard and consequently an alum of l’Arpège where he worked under the master chef for seven years, the young talent has garnered a reputation for his excellence in the kitchen and still remains completely down to earth.
Working alongside sous-chef Damien Ruffier, Nicolas churns out a menu of refined French classics in generous portions and at more than reasonable prices. If you thought it wasn’t possible to find all that in one place, you should hike it on over to Paradis and prove yourself wrong.
Begin indulging with the Duperier Foie gras “extra” mi-cuit, garnished with passion fruit jelly, a dusting of café and grilled bread crisps. Or taste it in liquid form, blended into a creamy butternut soup made with star anise and croutons.
Follow with the Saint-Jacques mi-cuites to perfection in shellfish juice whisked with beurre. Eat it slowly enough, otherwise you’ll be sad when it’s all gone.
Options for the veggie-inclined include a gratin composed of mild Cévennes onions, organic parmesan and chard or a plate of buttered winter vegetables.
If you’re more about the meat, do not pass up the rack of Iberian pork à la plancha (grilled on a metal plate). You can cut through it like butter, it’s that succulent — and the food orgy continues with herbed mashed potatoes, sautéed spinach and trompette mushroom cream on the side.
Round out your meal with le ‘Tout Chocolat,’ a trio of chocolate in all its forms : creamy, crunchy, rich and melty. And be sure to pair each course with an appropriate Bordeaux or other selection from the organic wine list.
The ambiance at Paradis provides a good backdrop. The restaurant is spread over two levels, echoing the classy stylings of the 1930s with marble-top tables, leather benches and photos signed Man Ray marking the walls. Soon to be open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, the place is equally cozy for grabbing coffee and drinks.
We went when the menu was in the beginning stages due to limited kitchen access, but we’re already salivating for more. If you find your recent restaurant excursions crashing and burning or just want to have an exceptional meal without emptying your bank account, head to Paradis, and get lost in gastronomic paradise.
Le Paradis
14 rue de Paradis
75010 Paris
Métro : Château d’Eau, Gare de l’Est
Hours : Monday through Friday from 8 am to 2 am
Phone : 01 45 23 57 98
Website : www.restaurant-paradis.com
Article: Stéphanie Holmes
Photos credits: Keffer
