Despite minor uprisings of vegan and vegetarian rebels, Paris is still a carnivore’s capital, where the battle of the boeuf is raging on with burger bars, steakhouses and meaty sandwich joints throwing punches left and right to make it to the next round. But not every viande is made equal. And there are fewer disappointing things in the realm of first-world problems than a tough, overcooked entrecôte or a rubbery, unmemorable bistro burger served with soggy frites. That’s just…bof.
Enter the newest beefy contender, John Viande, who’s showing more than enough meat flex to stand up to his bloody competitors.
Recently settled into the burgeoning rue de Paradis, this casual, modern gastropub is hard to classify — not quite totally hipster yet undeniably à la mode. Regardless, co-owners Alex and Aurélien pull off the final result well, which is essentially a relaxed bar and eatery that offers people a place to chill, mingle, see and be seen in a one-for-all atmosphere sans affectation.
Although the main dining room and bar area has a decidedly masculine air with authentic animal skulls mounted on the walls and a gentleman’s pub kind of feel, the dimmed lighting, brick walls and tasteful wood furnishings make it perfectly appropriate for bringing your meuf around or for eventually crossing a pack of meat-loving Parisian she wolves at the bar.
The second dining room below is slightly more cozy and quieter with larger tables to accommodate groups. But all that takes backseat to the menu, filled with succulent meat dishes in every form, inventive burgers and a wine/cocktail list that heavily suffices as liquid accompaniment (plus beer on tap, of course).
The carte features prime meats mainly of French origin, but when chef Aurélien can get ahold of some good Scottish or English cuts, he’s not one to refuse. If you have any hesitations or know nothing about beef, don’t hesitate to ask for his guidance. He can tell you which kind is in season, when and how it’s prepared, down to every last fleshy detail.
The cuisine is a creative amalgam of regional-inspired recipes, including tender duck filet cooked with sichuan beads and arranged neatly over a pile of potatoes prepared à la Sarladaise, sliced Pata Negra and fried egg on a bed of Padron peppers from the Galicia region, beef tartare flavored with parmesan, olive oil and shallots, and the generous onglet de boeuf to be drizzled or drenched in a Fourmé d’Albert cheese sauce, flanked with a salad and homemade fries. Dressed-up raviolis, a baked egg dish, and foie gras round out the starter options.
If you’re fiending for a burger, select any of the six original recipes. We’re already planning a return trip to test the Umami topped with ricotta doused in truffle oil, onion confit, slow-roasted tomatoes and portobello mushrooms. If you have simpler tastes, try the Simple Jack with American cheese, spring onions, and Jack Daniels’ secret sauce.
While Aurélien is busy prepping your food in the kitchen, his associate Alex will take care of all your liquid nourishment, as he pops bottles and slings his original cocktails behind the impressive wood bar. On weekend nights (starting with Thursday Afterworks), you can stick around after dinner for some prolonged papotage in a pub-like atmosphere that isn’t crawling with Anglos or tourists.
Bottom line ? The food and drinks here are seriously good, but it’s not a place where you have to take yourself seriously. And if you’re thinking of giving up meat anytime soon, at least visit John Viande once before you do. You just might give it a second thought…
John Viande
7 bis rue de Paradis
Paris 75010
Métro : Château d’Eau
Open Monday to Friday from noon to 2:30 pm, 7pm to 2 am; Saturday from 7 pm to 2 am
Phone : 01 47 70 38 06
Email : manger@johnviande.fr
Website : http://www.johnviande.fr
Article : Stéphanie Holmes
