The art of eating and drinking in Paris is equally as important as the art practiced by those providing the nourishment. A six-ingredient cocktail, for instance, should be sipped leisurely, not thrown back in one gulp like a shot or guzzled like a beer. A plate of spiced duck tartare with a side of Thai coleslaw should be thoughtfully chewed and savored, not scarfed down like a street crêpe to cure a quick faim. Likewise, the care that goes into creating cocktails and innovative cuisine needs to be skillfully applied by masters of their trade, otherwise known as artisans.

Relative SoPi newcomer Artisan is all about good food and beverage, while providing a classy, relaxed setting for those looking to hone their consumption skills. Opened up by the guys behind La Maison Mère (Thomas Kolnikoff and John Sellam) in collaboration with seasoned bartender Frédéric Le Bordays, the bar is a rustic refuge for neighborhood locals and well-heeled twenty- to thirty-somethings wanting to take the edge off.

Brick and wood accents complement minimalist surroundings with old-fashioned décor, while laid-back tunes and friendly servers make for a chill atmosphere, ideal for hanging out with friends, colleagues or casual dates.

The wraparound bar and high-top tables up front are prime spots for sharing a bottle of natural wine or testing out Frédéric’s imaginative cocktail list, composed of revisited classics and perfected modern recipes. His cocktail prowess runs so deep that he has released his own book, “Les Nouveaux Cocktails Classiques,” which might as well be referred to as the new Bible for budding amateur bartenders.

No apéro is complete without something to munch on, which is where the menu of prepared small plates comes in. The selection encompasses a variety of artfully presented gourmet dishes made with in-season ingredients suitable for all appetites. Currently up for taste testing : Galician mussels with salted butter and spinach, a shaved pile of 16-month matured Jambon de Bayonne, a serving of creamy burrata with tomatoes and roquette relish, a refashioned Croque Signore topped with caponata, ricotta and jambon blanc, and a juicy cut of seared red tuna perched on a bed of niçoise-inspired garnishes, among others.

Unlike the other tapas & cocktail ventures of its kind, Artisan refreshes everything on its menu every three weeks. That means new wines, new beers, new cocktails and new epicurean delicacies to try out each month, and on top of that, the bar is now open for Sunday brunch with a “terre and mer” theme, based around seafood and earthy dishes made with artisanal products.

The 25-euro formule gets you two savory dishes au choix, dessert, a detox cocktail or fresh-squeezed juice and exotic filtered coffee or tea. Pair the parmentier de canard (terre) with a brandade de cabillaud (mer), a homemade waffle with a side of chocolate sauce and Chantilly cream for dessert and a Courgette Power detox cocktail. That plus Tanzanian Arabica espresso, and you’ve found yourself a new haven for Sunday hangovers.

Artisan
14 rue Bochart de Saron
Paris 75009
Métro : Anvers
Open Tuesday to Saturday from 7 pm to 2 am, Sunday brunch from noon to 4 pm
Phone : 01 48 74 65 38
Website : www.artisan-bar.fr

article : Stéphanie Holmes