Paris would be a dull place without Middle Eastern cuisine, not to mention a barren wasteland in the way of late-night snacks. Whether it’s Turkish, Lebanese, Persian, Armenian or of other similar origin, it’s a no-fail option that not only tastes good but also serves multiple other purposes.
For starters, it’s a satisfying diversion from everyday bistro grub that your mom or any cookbook dummy could make. It’s a great takeout option when you don’t feel like cooking and want to eat at home or on the go. And it has special absorption properties for last night’s alcohol in the form of grilled, meaty protein, marinated veggies, creamy sauces and fluffy pita or Lavash flatbread to sop it all up.
The only downside is after eating said meals, you often go home with a food baby and the subsequent need to unbutton your jeans and take a catnap on the couch for digestion.
Leave it to two pretty, savvy French-Armenian women to introduce their lighter yet equally flavorful interpretation of eastern Mediterranean dishes in the form of appetizing mezzés at their appropriately named Canal Saint Martin outpost, Mezz.
Following in the street-food footsteps of its neighborhood brothers from other mothers (ie., The Sunken Chip, El Guacamole, etc.), Mezz is your new sidewalk Canal cantine, with minimalist modern décor, plenty of sitting room for crappy-weather days and menu prices that won’t pressure you into prioritizing whether you should indulge or skip it and save your bar money.
Compose your meal according to your hunger on a scale of one to four mezzés chosen from five categories of homemade dips, savory Phyllo pastries, assorted salads, meatballs and marinated mini brochettes.
Co-owners Nairi Kurdoghlian and Laurie Afar will be your friendly hosts, guiding you through their street food universe composed of both classic and revisited dishes alike, including their shared favorite, the Taboulé Oh La La, a traditional green tabouleh recipe, or their invented Boeuf Graffiti, a Phyllo pastry stuffed with beef, melted Halloumi cheese and piment d’Espelette.
They’ve also downsized gut-heavy falafel sammies to bite-size portions and emphasize the power of the ‘boulette’ with zingy beef meatballs prepared with fresh herbs, onions and allspice or chicken meatballs made with mint, lemon and roasted pine nuts.
If you’re a perpetually indecisive eater, choose one of the composed mezzé combos that let you taste around the menu, or if you’re with a group, order Le Grand Mix for sharing.
Greek yogurt with custom toppings, Portuguese Natas and fresh fruit round out the menu dessert-wise, while the drink list includes bottled Greek or Armenian beer and a small yet quality wine selection. Detoxers can drink bio Løv Organic tea, house lemonade, or the Tan, a salty yogurt-based Armenian specialty drink.
With Nairi’s formal training at Ferrandi and Laurie’s expertise in restaurant management, the duo hopes to make Mezz a lasting enterprise, with plans to continuously update and expand the menu (pita sandwich-lovers, be patient), host themed soirées and basically become a canal-side fixture for exotic meals without frills — just simple, tasty Middle Eastern cuisine made from scratch and served in a bright, welcoming atmosphere.
Our verdict ? Let the street-food phenomenon continue.
Mezz
53 Quai de Valmy
75010 Paris
Métro : République, Jacques Bonsergent, Goncourt
Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday (soon to be open on Sunday)
Phone : 09 67 37 00 62
Website : www.mezz.fr
Article : Stéphanie Holmes
[googleMap name=”Mezz” description=”53 Quai de Valmy” width=”900″ height=”300″ mousewheel=”false” directions_to=”false”]53 Quai de Valmy Paris[/googleMap]
